The collar on this jacket is cut as a straight rectangle. The interfacing is shaped normally. The collar fabric is ease stitched with three rows of small basting stitches. It's pinned to the interfacing and the basting stitches used to gently ease the rectangle into the curved shape. Then the collar is steamed to shrink out the fullness and set the collar into shape. Here I've started easing the collar into shape using a steam iron to gently steam and then pat the fabric into shape.
This year I'll be making my second couture-style jacket using Claire Shaeffer's Vogue pattern V8991. I am also using her book and DVD Couture Sewing: The Couture Cardigan Jacket as a reference for the couture sewing techniques used to complete the jacket. To construct the jacket I'll use a combination of the pattern instructions and techniques I learned from the Couture Sewing book when I made Vogue V8804 last year.
Shaped Collar
The collar seam allowances are pressed down and basted, and the collar is hand sewn to the jacket body. The seam allowances are trimmed. The lining will be attached to the collar later. Hand basting really helps to fit the pieces properly, especially with this fabric that's prone to ravel and stretch.
I've decided the collar doesn't need trim.


