Finishing Touches

 

Chain Weight at Hem

One of the secrets of Chanel's jackets was the chain weight at the hemline that makes the jacket hang beautifully straight.  When I try the jacket on before the chain is sewn in, and again after the chain is sewn in, there's a noticeable difference in  how the jacket hangs and feels being worn.

This chain is from Susan Khalje Couture and at $.70 an inch is not an inexpensive addition, but it makes a big difference in the finished jacket.  This chain is shiny, heavy (3 oz.), and looks like a lovely piece of jewelry.

The chain is hand sewn along the hemline, either right at the hemline or just above it.  I first basted in place, then hand stitched along the top every other link, and then back again on the bottom edge every every other link.

Pick Stitches along Edge

Tiny pick stitches are sewn along the lining edge to keep the lining nice and flat along the edge, and to keep the lining from rolling outward with wear.

Darts at Back Waist

In the photo of the back jacket lining you'll notice that there are darts in the back lining, but no darts in the jacket fabric.  The darts are made in the lining only and then the jacket fabric is steam shrunk around it. This gives just a little nip in at the back waist without having extra seams in the outer jacket fabric.  In the pattern instructions these darts are machine sewn while the back is being constructed.  In the "Couture Sewing" DVD it's done by hand after the back is sewn together.  I've opted to use the latter method.

Label

As the last step I sewed in a "handcrafted by" label ordered from Label Weavers