I'll first make the jacket in muslin (also referred to as a Toile) so I can make any adjustments to fit, and then will use the final muslin to make a pattern for cutting the wool jacket fabric. I cut the muslin using adjustments I expected from past experience, shortening for my height and using a smaller size in some areas and larger in others. On the first pass there are numerous adjustments needed - the sleeve cap needs to come in tighter, armscye raised, sleeve shortened, etc.
